Multicolored heels. Elegance and luxury Art Deco
INexhibition " " in The Moscow Kremlin Museums will last until January 11, 2017. A large-scale exposition - the ideals of beauty, the best examples of fashion, jewelry and graphics of the era - is presented in the One-Pillar Chamber of the Patriarchal Palace and the exhibition hall of the Assumption Belfry. We figured out why it's not to be missed.
“Honestly, it seemed that the art deco costumes in the illustrations were more beautiful than in real life,” says exhibition curator Svetlana Amelekhina of the graphics in the Jardin du Mode magazine, which later formed the basis of Vogue.
The artists of the Parisian publications drew inspiration from the East - Japanese engravings of the 18th-19th centuries impressed not only the Impressionists. The European public historically liked the exotic in a variety of eras, and the 20-30s - the most "crazy" years of the last century - were no exception.
It is not easy to agree with the curator's statement: the dresses and kimonos from the Kyoto Costume Institute presented at the exhibition are in no way inferior to the illustrations. Among the couture exhibits are not only the costumes of the French reformers Coco Chanel and Paul Poiret, but also beaded handbags and Cartier agate bonbonnieres.
About the Art Deco era
The term "Art Deco" was first used by Le Corbusier as an abbreviation for arts décoratifs - "decorative arts", shown in Paris at the International Exhibition of 1925. The heyday of the style falls on the interwar period: Art Deco replaced Art Nouveau. He combined elements of different directions - from classicism to chinoiserie, passion for the East.
Art Deco embodies the joy of life and the beauty of the post-war period - Les années folles, "crazy years" that replaced hunger and poverty. The time of Hemingway and Fitzgerald, jazz and women's emancipation in clothing falls precisely on the 20-30s.
Art Deco aesthetics is a holiday that is always with you, and balls from The Great Gatsby are by and large the last major bourgeois style in nature.
“They traveled a lot, read a lot, were very educated and tried to put everything they saw into reality, connect and see what would come of it. And masterpieces were obtained, ”says Amelyokhina.
High-fashion
One of the conquests of the era was the dresses of Paul Poiret - a straight silhouette with a low waistline, so loved by flappers - young and independent girls who smoke and wear a bob hairstyle.
They are replaced by robe de style -dresses with a narrow waist and full skirt, which Jeanne Lanvin brought into fashion.
Not so well-known now, the Callo sisters gravitated towards more linear silhouettes and at the same time did not deprive their outfits of rich decoration, for which the era received another name - the “golden 20s”.
“All exhibits are interesting in their own way, but I would like to highlight this particular dress of the Callo sisters,” says Makoto Ishizeki, curator of the exhibition from the Kyoto Costume Institute. —Despite the fact that their atelier was in Paris, they were inspired by elements from different world cultures. In this dress, Japanese floral motifs with sakura are combined with rich pearl embroidery, which came from Russia. At that artistic time, fashion knew no bounds."
The excavation of Tutankhamun's tomb in 1922 started a craze for Egypt, including in clothing, which can be seen in Madeleine Vionnet's dress.
The coats of the reformer who liberated women from corsets, Paul Poiret, are inspired by Russian ballet. “The blue coat with wings resembles the Dying Swan, but this one is Ivan Tsarevich from The Firebird,” Amelyokhina describes them.
Ceremonial court dress with train. Fashion house "Worth", France, 1914 / Homemade dress. Silk crepe, habutai silk, embroidery. Japan, 1900s
Evening Dress. Fashion designer Madeleine Vionnet France, 1927 / Lace dress. Boué Souers fashion house, France, circa 1923
Cocktail Dress. Fashion house "Callot Sisters" (Callot Soeurs), France, winter 1922
Evening coat. Fashion designer Paul Poiret, France, circa 1925 / Evening coat. Fashion designer Paul Poiret, France, circa 1925
Chanel evening dress. Silk charmeuse, silk tulle, embroidery. France, circa 1922 / Silver lamé evening dress, silver and bead embroidery. Fashion designer Paul Poiret. France, around 1920
Boué Soeurs dress. Taffeta, organdy, silk ribbon, embroidery, appliqué. France, circa 1923
Evening Dress. Fashion designer Madeleine Vionnet (Vionnet). Silk muslin with silver lamé threads, tulle, beads. France, around 1922 / Silk dress. Fashion designer Madeleine Vionnet (Vionnet). Silk charmeuse, habutai silk, appliqué. France, around 1922
Chanel evening dress. Silk charmeuse, chiffon, tulle. France, around 1929 / Shawl Coudurier-Fructus-Descher. Patterned silk with gold and silver lamé threads, silk fringe. Lyon, France, circa 1925
In total, the exhibition features more than a hundred items, including evening dresses and outerwear, all exhibits of the Kyoto Costume Institute. He also owes much of his creation to the Art Deco retrospective in New York in 1973, which inspired the young Yamamoto at one time, persuading the future director of the museum to bring the exhibition to the Museum of Modern Art in Kyoto. Three years later, the Kyoto Costume Institute was opened.
“Our mission is to study Western fashion, which is a source of inspiration for contemporary fashion. Therefore, the museum's collection contains more than 12,000 costumes from the 17th century to the present era, including copies from houses such as Chanel, Christian Dior, Louis Vuitton, more than a thousand items from Comme des Garçons, which Rei Kawakubo donated to the museum, ”says Makoto Ishizeki, exhibition curator from the Kyoto Costume Institute.
Accessories and jewelry
Changes in the appearance of a woman led to the emergence of new accessories - bonbonnieres and bandeaus for boyish hairstyles. Shoes also changed, designers began to use new technologies.
“These are all new materials: celluloid, rhinestones, metal beads. To talk about the palette and range that Art Deco has absorbed: we all see here - some are more associated with the classics, others - with oriental motifs, with allusions to Japanese art, ”says Larisa Peshekhonova, curator of the jewelry department, about false heels for ladies' shoes.
Another new conquest of the era are flat bandeaus encrusted with diamonds, which are replacing more traditional tiaras.The Van Cleef & Arpels collar necklace, formerly owned by the Egyptian princess Faiza, daughter of the Egyptian king Fuad I, is also impressive. A few years ago, it went off Christie's auction for $ 4.2 million.
“This outstanding necklace is one of the most expressive items in the jewelry section of the exhibition and a fine example of the modernist Art Deco aesthetics. It features a wide variety of cut diamonds, which create a stunning play of light and rainbow effect, as well as 10 Colombian emeralds weighing 165 carats. This is a remarkable example of the white Art Deco style in jewelry art,” says Peshekhonova.
The era also introduces fashion for pearls, including artificial ones. Cartier and Van Cleef used only natural pearls, but there were exceptions. The most entertaining story is connected with the name of the great fashion designer Elsa Schiaparelli.
Curator Larisa Peshekhonova says: “Schiaparelli brought cultured pearls to the Cartier company, which had never created jewelry from such materials. But the famous fashion designer ordered a bracelet -and it turned out to be a luxurious thing. The clasp of the bracelet is like an abstract sculpture carved from onyx. There are also diamonds of various shapes, and baguettes stand in steps. How spectacular it looks, in a modernist way, and at the same time it is a strict classic. Whatever geometric abstract works are created at Cartier, they are always classic, refined, because Louis Cartier was a fan of the classics.
Van Cleef & Arpels collar necklace. Platinum, emeralds, diamonds. Paris, 1929. Van Cleef & Arpels Collection / Van Cleef & Arpels Tassel Earrings. Platinum, emeralds, diamonds. Paris, 1923
Envelope Van Cleef & Arpels. Yellow gold, black enamel. Paris, circa 1922
Bracelet (made by special order). Cartier Paris, 1935 Platinum, white gold, carved onyx, brilliant-cut and baguette-cut diamonds, cultured pearls; onyx clasp Cartier Collection
Art Deco brooch watch Van Cleef & Arpels. Platinum, diamonds, sapphires, onyx, black enamel. Paris, 1924 / Van Cleef & Arpels Egyptian style brooch. Platinum, diamonds, emeralds, sapphires, rubies, black enamel. Paris, 1924
Bandeau Cartier. Platinum, antique round diamonds, rose cut diamonds, grisant setting. Paris, 1920
Travel bag "Blue Express" Van Cleef & Arpels. Platinum, emeralds, sapphires, diamonds. Paris, circa 1931. Van Cleef & Arpels collection
Envelope Van Cleef & Arpels. Yellow gold, diamonds, black enamel. Paris, 1923 / Travel bag "Chinese vase" Cartier, Paris, 1927. Gold, platinum, onyx, emeralds, sapphires, coral, diamonds, rose-cut diamonds, enamel. Collection Cartier
Travel bag "Millefiori" Van Cleef & Arpels. White and yellow gold, platinum, red, green and black enamel, red jasper, diamonds, diamonds. Paris, 1928
Cartier bandeau, New York, 1924. Platinum, natural pearls, old-cut round diamonds, two pear-shaped diamonds. Collection Cartier
Graphics
The art deco world is hard to imagine without the magazines and newspapers of the era - illustrations for the Gazette du bon ton, Feuilles d "art and Robes et femmes are museum pieces today. Sometimes the magazines even belonged to the couturier, like the Jardin du Mode by Paul Poiret and his publisher Lucien Vogel.
Illustration "August 1914" Georges Lepap. Modes et Manières d "Aujourd" hui. Paris, 1914 / Illustration "Farewell". Modes et manières d'aujourd'hui 1914-1919. Paris, 1921. Georges Lepap
Illustration "The Judgment of Paris". Falbalas et fanfreluches - Almanach des modes présentes, passées et futures pour 1924. Paris, 1924. Georges Barbier / Illustration "Leave me alone!". Feuillets d'art, 1919, No.2 Paris, 1919. Georges Barbier
Illustration "Prologue, or Comedy in the Castle". La Gazette du bon ton: arts, modes & frivolités, Juillet 1920, No.6 Paris, 1920, Pierre Brissot / Illustration “What are you going to do! Evening dress from Worth. La Gazette du bon ton: arts, modes & frivolites, Juille
Art Deco is an era that flourished almost a century ago, but we never cease to be inspired by it. “Costume and fashion historians have so far argued that fashion returns approximately every 70 years, as does interest in costume. This is true, it is obvious to all of us, but it seems to me that after all this period is not 70, but 100 years. Because the costumes that we are now exhibiting, in my opinion, are extremely relevant for the present. Any fashionable lady would put on almost every one of them with great pleasure or would ask her dressmakers to repeat it, ”says Svetlana Amelyokhina.
The exhibition is open to the public from 10:00 to 17:00 every day except Thursday. Details and tickets are on the exhibition website at the link.
Starting from September 30, 2016 and until the end of the New Year holidays, the Moscow Kremlin Museums will host a unique exhibition dedicated to the Art Deco style that is experiencing a rebirth today.
At the exhibition “Elegance and luxury of Art Deco. Kyoto Costume Institute, jewelry houses Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels” for the first time in Russia will show a collection of women's clothing from European haute couture houses of the Art Deco era from the collection of the Kyoto Costume Institute (Japan). In addition, visitors will see jewelry from the 10s-30s of the 20th century, made by prominent jewelry houses - along with original sketches and photographs from the archives.
What can be seen at the exhibition
Guests of the exhibition will be able to see 119 exhibits from the Kyoto Costume Institute and jewelry pieces by Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels (34 and 24 respectively), as well as 20 original sketches and photographs from the Cartier archive. All the jewels that visitors will see were created in the 1910s-1930s and represent both the first and very rare works,
made in the early Art Deco style, as well as unique extravagant decorations of a later period.
A press release on the Kremlin Museums website states: “The Moscow Kremlin Museums are turning to the theme of Art Deco as an amazing artistic and socio-cultural phenomenon of the 20th century: this style of vivid creative fantasy, inspired by European classics and modernism, the culture of ancient civilizations, folk traditions and the rapid development of technological progress, was reflected in all types of art in the 1920s-1930s. and has not lost its relevance to this day.
The sociocultural role of women in the Art Deco era became more and more significant, vibrant and dynamic. The silhouettes of women's toilets changed, striving for free forms, ladies cut their hair short, used cosmetics, smoked, which inevitably affected the aesthetics of jewelry and the emergence of new types of precious accessories.
The Kyoto Costume Institute is one of the four best fashion museums in the world and owns the rarest collection of women's dresses and accessories from prominent European firms and fashion designers of the first third of the 20th century, such as Chanel, Worth, Poiret, Lucille, Paquin, Sisters Callot, Lanvin, Sisters Bue, Fortuny , and others. It was these fashion houses, having chosen a new modern direction in the art of creating a costume at the beginning of the 20th century, that determined the prospects for its development up to the present.
We advise you to read short stories about the most valuable and striking jewelry exhibits in the article on rbk-style.
Can dresses be works of art? Yes, I'll tell you. It was these dresses that were brought to Moscow from the Kyoto Costume Institute (Japan). Below you will see photos from the Kremlin website, but I assure you that they do not fully convey the beauty of these outfits. Their lines, finishes, textures, color, cut and tailoring are all perfection, all delight...
"The Kyoto Costume Institute is one of the four best fashion museums in the world and owns the rarest collection of women's dresses and accessories of outstanding European firms and fashion designers of the first third of the 20th century, such as Chanel, Worth, Poiret, Lucile, Paquin, Sisters Callot, Lanvin, Sisters Bue, Fortuny and others. It was these fashion houses that, having chosen a new modern trend in the art of costume creation at the beginning of the 20th century, determined the prospects for its development up to the present time," the exhibition website says (read other information there).
Robe de style dress by Jeanne Lanvin.
France, circa 1925
Silk taffeta, lace, chiffon, beads, rhinestones, sequins, crystals; weaving, embroidery, weaving.
Ceremonial (presentation?) court dress. Fashion house "Worth".
France, 1914
Silver taffeta lamé, silk tulle, sequins, rhinestones, artificial silk flowers; weaving, embroidery with sequins and rhinestones.
Fashion house "Sisters Kallo"
France, winter 1922
Patterned brocade, beads, brushes; weaving, beadwork, weaving.
Collection of the Kyoto Costume Institute. Photo © Takashi Hatakeyama
Coat. Fashion designer - Paul Poiret
France (?), circa 1925
Silk velvet, gold thread, beads; weaving, embroidery.
Collection of the Kyoto Costume Institute. Photo © Takashi Hatakeyama
Japan, 1900s
Silk crepe, habutai silk, silk threads; weaving, embroidery.
Collection of the Kyoto Costume Institute
Fashion house "Sisters Bue"
France, circa 1923
Taffeta, organdy, silk ribbon; weaving, embroidery, appliqué.
Collection of the Kyoto Costume Institute. Photo © Takashi Hatakeyama
Evening dress by Madeleine Vionnet
France, 1927
Silk gas, gold thread, bronze cord, tassels; weaving, embroidery, weaving.
Collection of the Kyoto Costume Institute. Photo © Takashi Hatakeyama
Along with the costumes, the exhibition also features jewelry from the 1910s–1930s. eminent jewelry houses Cartier And Van Cleef & Arpels along with original sketches and photographs from the archives.
Powder box from Van Cleef & Arpels "Le Train Bleu" (I'm more accustomed to calling this train "Blue Express", I wrote about it in a post about "Blue Lanvin").
Paris, circa 1931
Platinum, emeralds, sapphires, diamonds.
Van Cleef & Arpels Collection
An interesting story of its creation.
Wulf "Babe" Barnato, chairman of Bentley and winner of the 1928-1930 Le Mans race, won the bet once. In March 1931 (according to some versions, 1930), he participated in the race for Bentley Speed Six against express blue train. Babe bet £100 to be the first to reach his club, which is not even located in Calais, but in London. In order to perpetuate this feat and apologize for the long absence from his wife (!), he ordered this platinum travel bag as a gift for her.
Travel bag "Chinese vase" in the fashionable style "giardinetto"
Cartier
Paris, 1927
Gold, platinum, onyx (case), emeralds, sapphires, coral, diamonds, rose-cut diamonds, beige, red, white, green, yellow and black enamel.
Collection Cartier
Bandeau by Cartier
New York, 1924
Platinum, natural pearls, old-cut round diamonds, two pear-shaped diamonds.
Collection Cartier
Collar necklace for Princess Faiza of Egypt, created in 1929
Van Cleef & Arpels.
The exhibition is open from September 30, 2016 to January 11, 2017 from 10:00 to 17:00, except Thursday.
I love Art Deco, so I have a lot of posts on the fashion of that time.
Let me remind you of some.
About jewelry:
The film "The King's Speech", necklace - transformer from Van Cleef & Arpels.
Kremlin Museums open the long-awaited exhibition, the preparation for which lasted several years. The Kyoto Costume Institute, founded in 1978, for the first time brings a collection of women's clothing from European haute couture houses from Japan to Russia. The emphasis is on the style between the two wars - art deco.
Having influenced the world of fine arts and modern design, affecting literally all its areas, from architecture to household items, inspired by Art Nouveau and modernism, the culture of African tribes, Art Deco does not lose ground, remaining still relevant. Attention is focused precisely on this latest world style, the signs of which are demonstrated through the bright and dynamic silhouettes of women's toilets and exquisite jewelry from the 1910s - 1930s, provided by jewelry houses. Cartier And Van Cleef & Arpels.
The One-Pillar Chamber of the Patriarchal Palace and the exhibition hall of the Dormition Belfry will display archived Kyoto Institute, one of the four best fashion museums, evening dresses and coats, dance and cocktail ensembles. The viewer will get acquainted with a special variety of dresses from the women's wardrobe of the Art Deco era, known as "robe de style", and romantic "linen" outfits made of the finest fabrics with the most delicate inserts. The fascination with Japaneseism, which arose after the exhibitions of the early twentieth century, was reflected in the home dress descending from the shoulders and one-piece coats that looked like kimonos.
Paul Poiret Design Coat | Traditional home dress
France, around 1925 | Japan, 1900s
Photo: Takashi Hatakeyama
In a formal court dress with a train, Willia Page, wife of the American ambassador to Britain, Walter Page, was introduced to King George V and Queen Mary at St. James's Palace on February 14, 1914. This memorial outfit is coming to Moscow.
Ceremonial court dress with train
France, 1914
Fashion House Worth
Collection of the Kyoto Costume Institute
Photo: Takashi Hatakeyama
The Van Cleef & Arpels collection provides an exhibit with a curious history, namely the "Blue Train" platinum powder case made of emeralds, sapphires and diamonds, which Mr. . Barnato got from Cannes to Paris faster than the Blue Train, which traveled that route.
Powder box "Blue train"
Paris, ca. 1931
Van Cleef & Arpels Collection
The Van Cleef & Arpels collar necklace is a fine example of Art Deco modernist aesthetics, featuring not only diamonds in various cuts, but also ten 165-carat Colombian emeralds. The item belonged to the Egyptian princess Faiza, daughter of the Egyptian king Fuad I.
Collar necklace
Paris, 1929
Van Cleef & Arpels Collection
The curators recalled the famous Paris International Exhibition of Modern Decorative and Industrial Arts in 1925, which later gave its name to the Art Deco style. Just then, Louis Cartier and Jeanne Lanvin first presented clothing and jewelry as a single ensemble. The same concept formed the basis of the project in the Kremlin Museums.
On September 30, the Moscow Kremlin opened the exhibition “ELEGANCE AND LUXURY OF ART DECO. KYOTO COSTUME INSTITUTE, CARTIER AND VAN CLEEF & ARPELS JEWELRY HOUSES.
The exhibition features 119 items from the collection of the Kyoto Costume Institute (34 items) and jewelry pieces by Cartier and Van Cleef&Arpels (24 items), as well as 20 original sketches and photographs from the Cartier archive. According to Svetlana Alexandrovna Amelekhina, the author of the concept and curator of the exhibition, the Art Deco era was chosen for its modern sound, many of the dresses and jewelry today can be worn and look stylish and elegant. Acquaintance with the exhibits presented at the exhibition really creates such an impression. Two beautiful Fortuny dresses, a coat by Paul Poiret, an evening gown by Madeleine Vionnet, amazing brooches, bandeaus and earrings do not look outdated and unfashionable.
The exhibition is located in two different rooms - the first hall, an earlier period, the beginning of the century, in the exhibition hall of the Assumption Belfry (therefore, it is better to start from this hall), dresses, jewelry and accessories of the 20-30s of the last century in the One-Pillar Chamber of the Patriarchal Palace.
Almost all dresses from the Kyoto Institute have never been exhibited and left the Institute for the first time for a unique exhibition in the Moscow Kremlin.
Guides and specialists of the Moscow Kremlin have prepared special events for the exhibition:
- CYCLE No. 28. FROM ART NOVOT TO ART DECO
- THE CYCLE OF LECTURES “YOUNG, BOLD, BEAUTIFUL. ART DECO AND SOVIET STYLE»
- III International Music Festival "Ambassador's Gifts"
- "Images and Rhythms of the 1920s" - competition for the best costume in the art deco style
- Program for children "Hat, shoes, reticule"
- Special program "WORLD OF CINEMA AND FASHION OF THE FIRST HALF OF THE XX CENTURY"
- Special program "CREATING A BALLET AND THEATER COSTUME IN THE ART DECO STYLE"
Dress "Delphos" France around 1910, Mariano Fortuny, Collection of the Kyoto Institute, exhibition catalog 
Dress "Delphos" France around 1910, Mariano Fortuny,
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Evening dress, France around 1920. Paul Poiret, Collection of the Kyoto Institute, exhibition catalog
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Brooch watch, Cartier collection, Paris, 1921, exhibition catalog
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Callot Saeurs, France, winter 1922, Collection of the Kyoto Institute, photo from the exhibition
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Evening dress, Jeanne Lanvin, France around 1925, Collection of the Kyoto Institute, photo from the exhibition
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Evening dress, Georges Deyer, France around 1925,
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Heels for women's shoes France around 1925,Collection of the Kyoto Institute, exhibition catalog
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Evening dress, Worth, France around 1927,Kyoto Institute Collection, exhibition catalog
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Evening dress, Worth, France around 1925,Collection of the Kyoto Institute, photo from the exhibition